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Writer's picturePreeti Saldanha

Global Vipassana Pagoda

Coming to Mumbai year after year means I have to continuously find new tourist attractions and things to do. Last year, I covered most of the big attractions from Gateway, Kanheri Caves, Elephanta and the big shopping areas. I had seen the Global Vipassana Pagoda on the list of things to do in Mumbai but it was far off and I was not quite sure what it was so it has since been tabled. 


The beauty of having no job is the freedom and time! Krunal was still in town so we decided to take a day trip to see the pagoda. I had assumed it was just a Buddhist  temple that we would look at and then leave. I was so wrong! We spent about 4 hours at the pagoda. 


The Global Vipassana Pagoda sits on an island in the western part of Mumbai. To access it, Krunal and I took the local to Borivali station and then a rickshaw where we boarded the ferry to the Pagoda. The ferry that took us to the Pagoda was the same ferry that went to Essel world which is a water theme park. It was very clear who was going where from the attire people were wearing. 


Being on the water anywhere is always so nice and Mumbai was no exception. It was hot today but the cool breeze off the water kept us cool on the boat packed with Indians. Despite it being a Friday, it was still quite crowded. In the middle of the water were several boats docked that I called party boats. They were brightly colored and well painted with streamers hung off the masts. As we neared closer to the island, the golden spire of the pagoda peaked through the surrounding greenery providing such a contrast.  



There was a short walk to the pagoda from the dock and there we saw the pagoda shimmering before our eyes. The pagoda was built to be a complex of buildings and not a stand alone building. Two massive lions guarded the front gates. The front entrance looked a lot like a Thai temple but in fact it is separated from religion altogether. The Global Vipassana Pagoda was built as a large meditation hall. It is a space where people of all faiths can come and practice meditation which Buddha. The entrance was covered in gold filagree designs contrasted with a bright red color. On either sides of the entrance there were two massive structure. One structure housed a giant bell that people were going up to play with a big wooden pole that hung in the back of the bell. The other side was a massive gong held by two statues. 



Up the set of stairs stood the massive pagoda. The pagoda was built over 11 years and is built in 8 different layers. The pagoda is made of giant blocks of red sandstone that would withstand time and weathering. I have to say the pagoda is very well maintained considering there is no admission fee. The initial structure itself was funded from donations around the world. 



There was an audio tour which was very informative about the construction of the pagoda to different structures and statues present. It took us from the main gates up to where two elephants guarded the main pagoda. The two elephants had their head bowed in respect to the meditators. 


The main pagoda was stunning and so intricately decorated. There was tons of gold filagree work inlaid with red and a teal blue. The pagoda is a replica of a pagoda in Myamar and serves as a symbol of peace and harmony. What makes it so famous is that it is the world’s largest stone building without any supporting pillars. The exterior is nearly twice the height of the interior. 



Inside the meditation hall, the stone is exposed creating a dull and raw look to the meditation hall. It is very simple inside with room for 8,000 meditators. Only those who partake in the 10 day Vipassana meditation course are permitted to meditate on the floor. Krunal and I just observed from the viewing gallery. The pagoda dome also contains relics of the Buddha which are taken down every so often to commemorate the founder of Vipassana meditation. 



Off to the side were two smaller meditation halls reserved for meditation students. They were ⅕ the size of the big meditation hall and scaled down so they were like miniature copies. In the back of the pagoda was a famous tree. This was the same tree that Buddha was said to have meditated under and become Enlightened. The tree is now sacred and it's seeds are shipped all over the world. In the back there was also a lovely little outdoor amphitheater that was sculpted with the same intricate gold work. There was also a small deer park where Buddha was said to have delivered his teachings. In a smaller kiddy park there were a series of statues of the most prominent figures of the Vipassana meditation who are attributed for keeping it alive. There was even a tall pillar with the 3 lions that are found on the Indian rupee coin. 



At the end of the audio tour there was a chance to practice Vipassana meditation. Krunal and I say in the respective male and female sides on a mat cross legged. The instructor played a tape with a low scratchy voice that sounded like it was from the 1960s. Of course I could not understand anything the voice said but I closed my eyes and focused on the breath. 


The last place we checked out was the gift shop where I picked up a gold peacock as a souvenir. 

Overall, I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to the Global Vipassana Pagoda and would definitely go again! 


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